Female Pant Trouser and Jumpsuit
1 month
5 Students
3 Lessons
- Two custom-fitted garments: one pant trouser and one jumpsuit
- Mastered pattern drafting from measurements
- Gained the ability to modify basic blocks into new designs
Trousers and jumpsuits are wardrobe powerhouses—but fitting the female form presents unique challenges: curved hips, waist hollows, rise length, and crotch curves.
This course teaches you how to draft a custom-fitted trouser block from scratch, then transform it into multiple styles: classic tailored pants, wide-leg trousers, and a chic one-piece jumpsuit. You will learn the secrets of a perfect crotch curve, how to adjust for different body shapes, and professional construction techniques including fly front zippers, waistbands, and pocket variations
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Following Natalie Bray's systematic approach, the trouser block begins with a right-angle construction grid based on the hip measurement. You draft the front leg first, establishing the center front line, crotch point (using hip depth and front rise), and grainline. The back leg is then derived from the front by extending the crotch curve forward and upward, adding additional back rise to accommodate the buttocks. Bray emphasizes that the crotch curve is not a random scoop—it is an mathematical calculation based on the difference between front and back rise measurements. All seams are trued to ensure inseams and outseams match perfectly before seam allowances are added.
"The crotch curve is the fingerprint of trouser fit. Get it right, and everything else follows."
: Drafting the Female Pant Trouser
- Creating a basic trouser block (front and back panels)
Gained the ability to modify basic blocks into new designs
Drafting waistbands, pockets
Sewing the Pant Trouser
Sewing darts, side seams, and inseams
Drafting the Jumpsuit
- Combining a bodice block with the trouser block
Sewing the Jumpsuit
